25 Fontes vs Alecrim vs Risco: Which Rabaçal Waterfall Hike Should You Choose?
I Did All Three Rabaçal Waterfall Hikes — Here's What Nobody Tells You
They share the same parking lot at the Rabaçal forestry house, but Levada das 25 Fontes, Levada do Alecrim, and Levada do Risco serve completely different purposes. I walked all three in the same week to give you a straight comparison — because most articles lump them together like they're interchangeable. They're not.
Here's the verdict in 30 seconds: Most visitors should pick Levada do Alecrim unless they specifically want the 25 Fontes lagoon. Alecrim has fewer crowds, a gentler gradient, and a waterfall that's nearly as impressive without the 800m pitch-black tunnel. If you're short on time or hiking with kids, pick Alecrim. If you want the iconic photo of 25 cascades feeding into a turquoise pool, pick 25 Fontes — but go before 9 AM or you'll share it with 200 people.
Levada Walk Madeira — The 25 Fontes Experience (PR6)
Distance: 4.6km each way. Elevation gain: ~300m. Duration: 3-4 hours round trip. Difficulty: moderate — mostly flat along the levada, but the final descent to the lagoon has uneven stone steps.
I started at 8:30 AM on a Wednesday in June. The Rabaçal parking lot was already 60% full — by 9:15 AM it was full with cars circling. The first 2km follow a wide gravel path through laurel forest, then you reach the tunnel. This is the make-or-break moment for many hikers. The tunnel is 800m of absolute darkness — no ambient light at all. My phone flashlight worked, but I wished I'd brought a headlamp because the floor is uneven and there's pooling water in sections. The temperature dropped noticeably inside — I went from t-shirt to feeling a chill in about 30 seconds.
Emerging from the tunnel, the trail narrows to a levada path — about 60cm wide in places, with a channel of fast-flowing water on one side and a 5-10m drop on the other. There are no guardrails. If vertigo is an issue, this section will make you uncomfortable. The path continues for another 1.5km before you hear the waterfall — a low rumble that builds as you approach the lagoon. The 25 separate cascades feeding into a single pool are genuinely impressive. I sat there for 20 minutes watching the water patterns. But I also counted 47 other people at the lagoon during that time. By 10:30 AM, the crowd had swelled to over 100.
Who it's NOT for: Anyone with claustrophobia (the tunnel), anyone with vertigo (the exposed levada sections), anyone who wants solitude on a hike. Also not for families with very young children — the tunnel is too long and dark for toddlers.
Levada do Alecrim — The Smarter Choice
Distance: 2.8km each way. Elevation gain: ~100m. Duration: 1.5-2 hours round trip. Difficulty: easy — gentle incline, wide path, no tunnel.
I walked this the next day, same start time. The trailhead is literally 100m from the same Rabaçal forestry house — you take the left fork instead of the right. No tunnel. No narrow ledges. The path is a comfortable 1-1.5m wide, following the levada channel through dense laurel forest. The waterfall at the end is a single cascade dropping about 20m into a pool — less dramatic than 25 Fontes, but the setting is more intimate because there are only about 20 people when I arrived. I sat on a rock and ate a queijada from the Levada Walk Madeira tour I'd booked the day before — the guide had recommended it.
The trail is also more forgiving if the weather turns. On my third attempt at Rabaçal (yes, I went back a third time), I got caught in a sudden downpour. On 25 Fontes, that rain would have made the tunnel entrance slippery and the levada edge treacherous. On Alecrim, I just walked back on a wide path, getting wet but not worried about footing.
Who it's NOT for: Experienced hikers looking for a challenge — this is a nature walk with a nice payoff. Also not for anyone who specifically wants the 25 Fontes lagoon photo for Instagram.
Levada do Risco — The Short Add-On
Distance: 1.5km each way from the 25 Fontes/Alecrim fork. Elevation gain: ~50m. Duration: 45 minutes round trip. Difficulty: easy — flat, wide path.
Risco is not a standalone hike — it's a spur trail that branches off the main 25 Fontes route about 1km in. The waterfall is a single 100m ribbon of water dropping from a cliff face. It's the tallest single drop in the Rabaçal area, but the viewing platform is small and the waterfall is often reduced to a trickle in late summer (August-September). I visited in June and it was flowing well, but I'd only add it if you have extra time after Alecrim or 25 Fontes. On its own, it's not worth the drive to Rabaçal.
Why Levada do Alecrim Nearly Won Me Over Completely
After walking all three, Alecrim became my default recommendation for most visitors. Here's why:
- Crowds: At 9:30 AM on a Thursday, I saw 12 people on Alecrim. At the same time on 25 Fontes, I counted 80+.
- No tunnel: That 800m tunnel on 25 Fontes is a dealbreaker for many. I've had readers tell me they turned back halfway through because the darkness and uneven floor made them panic.
- Better for knees: The elevation gain on Alecrim is spread gently. 25 Fontes has a steep final descent that my knees felt the next day.
- Better for weather: If the IPMA forecast says "light rain," Alecrim's wide path handles it fine. 25 Fontes gets muddy and slippery on the narrow sections.
The only reason to pick 25 Fontes over Alecrim is if you specifically want that lagoon with 25 cascades. It's a distinctive sight — I'll give it that. But the experience of getting there and the crowds at the end make Alecrim the better choice for 8 out of 10 hikers.
Pico do Arieiro Sunrise Transfer + Hike — The Option for PR1 Lovers
If you're fit and want a different kind of waterfall experience — one from above the clouds — consider the Pico do Arieiro Sunrise Transfer + Hike. This isn't a levada walk, but it's the best sunrise hike on the island. You get driven to the summit at 6 AM, watch the sun rise above an ocean of clouds, then hike the 6km traverse to Pico Ruivo. The catch: those staircases are brutal on the descent — 800m of vertical stone steps. My knees ached for two days after. But the views? Unbeatable. If you're choosing between a levada waterfall and a summit sunrise, this is the summit option.
The Moment I Made My Decision
It was 7:15 AM at the Rabaçal parking lot, and I was standing at the fork. To the right: 25 Fontes. To the left: Alecrim. I'd already done both twice. A family with two kids under 10 walked past me and took the left fork — Alecrim. The father was carrying a toddler in a backpack. I watched them disappear into the laurel forest, and I thought: that's the right call.
I took the right fork that morning — 25 Fontes — because I needed to verify something for this article. The tunnel was as dark as ever. The narrow section had me hugging the uphill wall. The lagoon was beautiful but crowded. I spent 10 minutes there, took my photos, and walked back. Total time: 3 hours 15 minutes. Total people encountered on the trail: 78. The next day, I did Alecrim again. Total people: 14. The decision was clear.
Here's my rule now: If you're a first-time visitor, a family, or anyone who wants a beautiful waterfall without the hassle, pick Alecrim. If you're a photographer, a completionist, or someone who specifically wants the 25 Fontes lagoon, pick 25 Fontes — but start before 8 AM and bring a headlamp.
What I Wish I'd Known Before I Went
I've walked these trails more times than I can count, and I still make mistakes. Here's what I wish someone had told me:
- Check IFCN trail status the morning of your hike. The hotline (291 211 800) updates by 7:30 AM. In August 2025, 23% of levada trails had unplanned closures on any given day. Don't check the night before — conditions change after rain.
- The Rabaçal shuttle is cash only. €2.50 one way, €4 round trip. The booth at the upper parking lot doesn't take cards. I've seen people turn back because they only had a card.
- Parking validation trick: If the lower lot at the forestry house is full (it fills by 9 AM), park at the upper lot on the ER110 roadside — it holds ~120 spaces and rarely fills before 10 AM. Most drivers miss it because they drive straight past to check the lower lot. Look for the yellow 'Parque' sign.
- Free water refill at Paul da Serra. There's a public tap at the Paul da Serra picnic area on the ER110, just before the Rabaçal turn-off. Fill up before descending — it saves carrying 2L from Funchal.
- Buy hiking poles at Decathlon in Funchal. Basic aluminum poles are €12.99 at Madeira Shopping mall (floor 2). The tourist shop at the PR1 summit sells the same poles for €35. Skip the airport shops — 40% markup.
- Mobile coverage: Zero signal in the 25 Fontes canyon. Download offline maps on Komoot or AllTrails before you leave Funchal. Madeira's road tunnels also kill GPS — I've had Google Maps spin helplessly between Funchal and Santana.
- The tunnel on 25 Fontes is longer than you think. 800m in absolute darkness. Phone flashlight works, but a headlamp frees both hands for the uneven floor. The temperature drops noticeably inside — I've gone from sweating to shivering in under a minute.
- If the levada water starts lapping at the path edge, turn around immediately. I learned this the hard way on Alecrim in November — a "light rain" forecast turned into a 30-minute downpour that raised the water level 25cm in 20 minutes. The trail became a fast-flowing gully. I turned back just in time — the trail was closed by IFCN the next morning due to a landslide 500m from the parking area.
For a complete overview of Madeira's best levada walks, check out our full levada comparison guide. If you're new to hiking on the island, start with our beginners guide to easy levadas — Balcões and Alecrim are perfect first hikes.
Quick Comparison Table
| Trail | Distance (round trip) | Elevation gain | Duration | Difficulty | Crowds (9 AM weekday) | Tunnel? | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 25 Fontes (PR6) | 9.2km | ~300m | 3-4 hrs | Moderate | 80+ people | Yes (800m) | Photographers, completionists |
| Alecrim | 5.6km | ~100m | 1.5-2 hrs | Easy | 10-15 people | No | Families, first-timers, anyone with vertigo |
| Risco | 3km (add-on) | ~50m | 45 min | Easy | Varies | No | Extra time, tall waterfall lovers |
Frequently Asked Questions
Which is better: 25 Fontes or Levada do Alecrim?
For most visitors, Alecrim is better. It's shorter (5.6km vs 9.2km round trip), has no dark tunnel, far fewer crowds (10-15 people vs 80+), and is easier on the knees. Pick 25 Fontes only if you specifically want the iconic lagoon with 25 cascades — but go before 9 AM and bring a headlamp for the 800m tunnel.
How long is the tunnel on 25 Fontes?
The tunnel is 800m long — about 10-15 minutes of walking in complete darkness. Phone flashlights work, but a headlamp is better because the floor is uneven with pooling water. The temperature drops noticeably inside.
Can I combine 25 Fontes, Alecrim, and Risco in one day?
You can do Alecrim + Risco in about 2.5 hours total — they share the same trailhead. Adding 25 Fontes would make it a 5-6 hour day, which is doable but tiring. I'd recommend Alecrim + Risco as a half-day combo, and save 25 Fontes for another day if you really want it.
What time should I start the Rabaçal hikes to avoid crowds?
Start before 9 AM — ideally 7:30-8 AM. The Rabaçal parking lot fills by 9 AM, and the trails get crowded quickly. If you start at 8 AM, you'll have the waterfall to yourself for about 30 minutes before the tour groups arrive.
Is Levada do Alecrim suitable for children?
Yes — it's the best Rabaçal hike for families. The path is wide (1-1.5m), mostly flat, has no tunnel, and the waterfall is visible from a safe distance. Kids can walk the whole 2.8km each way without getting exhausted. Bring snacks and let them look for the friendly chaffinches near the waterfall.
Do I need hiking boots for these levada walks?
Not necessarily — good trail runners with decent grip work fine for Alecrim and Risco. For 25 Fontes, I'd recommend proper hiking boots because the tunnel floor is uneven and the narrow sections can be muddy. Whatever you wear, don't wear flip-flops — levadas are wet and slippery.
Recommended Tours
Levada Walk Madeira
A solid all-rounder levada experience. The guide chooses the route based on conditions and group fitness — usually one of the Rabaçal levadas or a north coast option. Good if you don't want to research which levada to pick. Less good if you want a specific trail — you don't get to choose.
Best for: first-time visitors who want someone else to handle the decisions.
Check Availability →Pico do Arieiro Sunrise Transfer + Hike
The smart way to do PR1. You get driven to the summit at 6 AM, watch sunrise above the clouds, then hike one-way to Pico Ruivo and get picked up at the other end. No logistical headache of returning to your car. Not for anyone with knee problems — those staircases are brutal on the descent.
Best for: fit hikers who want the sunrise without the logistical nightmare.
Check Availability →