Madeira in Winter: What to Hike (and What Not to) November to February

I have been to Madeira in every season, here is the truth

Most travel guides treat Madeira like a summer destination. Sun, beach, palm trees. The truth? I experienced the island in January, when the north was wrapped in fog and there were 15 cm of snow on Pico Ruivo. And I experienced it in August, when I nearly dehydrated on the PR8 at 35°C. Winter hiking in Madeira is a completely different experience, fewer people, richer green, more dramatic cloud formations, but you need to know what you are getting into.

The key figure: Funchal gets about 600 mm of rain per year, while the north coast gets 2,000 mm. In winter this difference can mean that you start out in Funchal at 18°C in sunshine and two hours later find yourself standing in drizzle at the Rabaçal parking lot. I have experienced this more than once, and every time I was glad to have my rain pants with me.

Who is winter hiking in Madeira suited for? For anyone who seeks solitude, who loves the misty mood, and who does not need to reach the summit of Pico Ruivo. Who is it not suited for? Sun worshippers, people with sensitive knees (many trails are wet and slippery), and anyone who believes that "subtropical" automatically means warm.

Madeira Food & Wine Tour, ideal in high season

We earn a commission when you book through our links on Viator (PID P00303273), at no extra cost to you.

If you come in winter, a culinary tour is a good complement to the shorter days. I did the Madeira Food & Wine Tour in February, at 14°C and rain the poncha at Bar do Teresinha in Câmara de Lobos was exactly right. The tour goes through six to seven stops: from bolo do caco fresh off the grill to espada com banana (black scabbardfish with banana). You learn the difference between Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey, and the wine samples are generous. In winter the tour is less crowded, and the guides have more time for explanations. If you only do one culinary thing in Madeira, choose this one.

The month that changed how I saw Madeira

November 2024. I was on the island for the third time and thought I had seen everything. Then I drove to Fanal Forest at 7 in the morning. The blogs write "enchanting", "like a fairy tale". What I got was fog so thick I could not see my own boots. The parking lot markings disappeared after 15 meters. I followed what I thought was the path for 20 minutes before realizing I was walking in a circle, my own footprints confirmed it. No phone signal, no trail markers, just gray and silence. I stopped, listened for the road, and followed the sound of an occasional car engine. It took 45 minutes to get back. Do not go into Fanal Forest in dense fog without GPS, the forest floor looks the same everywhere, and the trail markers are on trees you cannot see.

That day showed me: winter in Madeira means being flexible. I had planned the PR1, but the IFCN report that morning showed a closure for maintenance work. So I switched to PR1.2 from Achada do Teixeira, only 3 km each way, 100 meters of elevation gain, and the same Pico Ruivo summit waiting at the end. It was not the complete traverse, but we stood at Madeira's highest point and watched the sunrise with about 20 other people who had the same idea. The clouds lay beneath us. The silence was complete. My friend said it was even better this way, because we could sit on the summit for an hour instead of rushing through the stepped section.

The lesson: in winter the PR1 is often closed, snow, ice, or maintenance work. But PR1.2 is almost always open. And the view is identical. Anyone who hikes in winter should always have a plan B.pt to check before setting out.

Funchal City Walking Tour, surprisingly good in the off season

I did the Funchal City Walking Tour in December, at 16°C and drizzle. And it was one of the finest orientations I have ever had. The tour goes through the old town (Zona Velha), the painted doors of Rua de Santa Maria, the Mercado dos Lavradores, and the Sé Cathedral. The guide showed me restaurants that are not tourist traps, I ate the finest bolo do caco on the island there. In winter the tour is less crowded, and the guide has time for individual questions. Not suitable for people with mobility impairments, Funchal is built on a slope. But for the first day it is well suited.

Packing lessons I learned the hard way

I started the PR1 on a cloudless April morning, T-shirt weather at the Arieiro parking lot, sunglasses on, pleased with myself about my timing. By the time I reached the tunnel at kilometer 2, the temperature had dropped by 12°C, and I was walking through freezing fog so thick I could not see the next trail marker. The microclimate shift happens at the ridge between Arieiro and Ruivo, the north coast weather spills over like a lid coming off a pot. I finished the hike shivering in a thin rain jacket that I had almost left in the car. Now I always wear a proper thermal layer on the PR1, even when Funchal has 28°C.

The same lesson applies to Levada do Alecrim in November. The IPMA forecast said "light rain". What I got was a 30 minute downpour that turned a gentle levada path into a fast flowing channel. The canal, normally 30 cm deep, ran 15 cm over the path surface. I stood ankle deep in the runoff, walking along the uphill edge of the path, because the downhill side dropped into a ravine I could not see through the rain. The water level in the levada itself rose 25 cm in 20 minutes, I watched it happen. I turned back, soaked and cold, and the trail was officially closed by IFCN the next morning due to a landslide 500 m from the parking lot. The lesson: IPMA's "light rain" forecasts for the north coast can mean anything. If you are on a levada path and the water starts to spill over the edge of the path, turn back immediately. It only gets worse.

My packing list for winter in Madeira now looks like this:

• Thermal underwear (merino or synthetic), for the higher elevations
• Waterproof jacket and pants, not a rain jacket, a proper shell. The rain on the north side is not drizzle, it comes down in torrents.
• Trekking poles, buy them cheaply at Decathlon in Funchal (Madeira Shopping, 2nd floor). Basic aluminum poles cost €12.99. At the tourist shop at the Arieiro summit the same poles cost €35.
• Headlamp, the tunnels on the PR1 are pitch dark. Tunnel 1 is about 200 m long, tunnel 2 about 120 m. Phone light is enough for tunnel 1, but tunnel 2 has uneven ground with puddles. A headlamp frees up both hands.
• Offline maps, Madeira's 150+ road tunnels kill GPS signal completely. Google Maps spins helplessly between Funchal and Santana. Download offline maps in Google Maps or use Komoot/AllTrails offline before you leave your accommodation.

What I wish I had known before my trip

I made so many mistakes over 400 km of levadas and summit trails that I want to spare you from them. Here are the most important ones:

1. Rental car choice is critical. I once booked a Fiat 500 for the mountain roads. The PR1 access road has 40+ hairpin turns with a 20% grade. The small engine struggled, and the undercarriage scraped over every bump. Rent at least a 1.2 liter gas engine with decent ground clearance. Europcar and Guerin allow their standard fleet on the mountain roads, Goldcar and Sixt explicitly forbid driving on the ER101 and ER110 in their contracts. Always check the "geographic restrictions" clause. Pickup in Funchal is about €15/day cheaper than at the airport.

2. Parking tricks. The parking lot at the Rabaçal forestry house (starting point for 25 Fontes and Alecrim) is full by 9am. Instead, park at the upper parking lot on the ER110 (about 120 spaces, rarely full before 10am) and take the shuttle down (€2.50 per person one way, €4 round trip, cash only). Most drivers do not see it because they drive straight to the lower parking lot. The shuttle stop is marked with a yellow "Parque" sign, look for it or you will miss it.

3. Start early, really early. I stood at Pico do Arieiro at 6:15am in July and found 200 people on the viewing platform, rows of tripods, someone playing music from a bluetooth speaker. In winter it is better, but even then: start before 9am. Levada dos Balcões is empty at 8am, by 10am it is full. And if you want to do the PR1 sunrise, book the transfer 3 to 5 days in advance (7 days in August). In winter 24 hours is usually enough. The Pico do Arieiro Sunrise Transfer + Hike is the most convenient option, you get dropped off at the summit, hike one way to Ruivo, and get picked up again.

4. Not all levadas have railings. Levada do Risco and parts of the PR9 follow irrigation channels with a path edge 30 to 50 cm wide and a drop of 20 m or more into the valley. There is no fence. Even "easy" levada walks like parts of the 25 Fontes have exposed sections. If fear of heights is an issue for you, stick to Levada dos Balcões or the coastal promenades.

5. The weather changes faster than you think. I started the PR1 on a cloudless morning, T-shirt weather. Two kilometers later, in the tunnel, the temperature had dropped by 12°C. Madeira's microclimate shifts are extreme. The IPMA forecast is only a guideline, the north coast can have rain while Funchal is sunny.

6. Where to get good coffee before the hike. There is a small pastelaria on the ER103, Padaria do Arieiro, no sign in English, just a faded "Pão" on the wall. It opens at 5:30am and serves the finest pre-hike coffee I have found on the mountain road. The owner, Dona Rosa, asks "Arieiro?" and if you nod, she pours a bica (espresso) that costs half as much as in the tourist cafes in Funchal and tastes three times as good. She also sells homemade queijadas (sweet cheese pastries) that are well suited for a summit breakfast. 3 km before the turnoff to Pico do Arieiro on the left side. Look for the blue awning. Otherwise you will miss single.

7. Whale watching in winter? Better not. The most favorable time for whales and dolphins is March to May and September to October. In winter the chance of sightings is lower. I did a tour in March, we saw a pod of spotted dolphins and a sperm whale within 15 minutes. The marine biologist said the early season (March to May) has the calmest sea conditions, because the trade winds have not set in yet. If you come in winter, focus on hiking, that is the season for it.

8. The finest bakery on the island. The bakery in Santana next to the thatched houses makes the finest bolo do caco (sweet potato bread) on the island. I stopped there in January after doing the PR1.2, warm, with garlic butter, for €1.50. An insider tip a local shared with me.

9. Refill water. There is a free public water refill station at the Paul da Serra picnic area (ER110, near the Rabaçal turnoff). Fill your bottles before descending into the levada walks. I once ran out of water on the 25 Fontes, never again.

10. Toilet check. PR1 Arieiro has free public restrooms at the summit shop (opens 7am, cleanliness varies). Rabaçal has flush toilets at the forestry house (€0.50 per use, clean). PR8 Sardinha has portable toilets (June to September only, often not maintained). PR11 Balcões and PR1.2 Achada da Teixeira have no restrooms. Plan accordingly.